Common Threads
Lee Marsh Bespoke: The Savile Row Jacket Masterclass - Common Threads 011 Part 2

Lee Marsh Bespoke: The Savile Row Jacket Masterclass - Common Threads 011 Part 2

March 2, 2022

Lee Marsh of Lee Marsh Bespoke has been in the bespoke trade since the 1990's and has worked for many esteemed houses on Savile Row including Gieves and Hawkes and Henry Poole. Though Lee is a classically trained tailor his mindset is focused not on the past but on the future. Having attended The London College of Fashion he brings an element of design to his work that isn't typically found on bespoke garments. His flare for style and passion for high quality make has landed him incredible clients and attention from press such as GQ and The Rake.

Many of our conversations here on Common Threads include two participants. One being the host and the other being the guest. On this episode though, we were fortunate to have another guest, giving a third dimension to our chat on learning bespoke tailoring. This time that third dimensionally is a delightfully spirited pupil of Lee's, Beatriz. Before coming to Lee Beatriz had already gotten her feet wet in alterations but wanted to take things to the next level and contacted Lee and started on the four month long jacket making course known as the Savile Row Jacket Masterclass.

In this two part episode we go step by step through the Savile Row Jacket Masterclass to better understand it's potential to bring newcomers in touch with bespoke who find themselves thousands of of miles away from the Row itself. We also gain better insight into what working on Savile Row is like and where it is headed. 

Lee Marsh Bespoke: The Savile Row Jacket Masterclass - Common Threads 011 Part 1

Lee Marsh Bespoke: The Savile Row Jacket Masterclass - Common Threads 011 Part 1

March 2, 2022

Lee Marsh of Lee Marsh Bespoke has been in the bespoke trade since the 1990's and has worked for many esteemed houses on Savile Row including Gieves and Hawkes and Henry Poole. Though Lee is a classically trained tailor his mindset is focused not on the past but on the future. Having attended The London College of Fashion he brings an element of design to his work that isn't typically found on bespoke garments. His flare for style and passion for high quality make has landed him incredible clients and attention from press such as GQ and The Rake.

Many of our conversations here on Common Threads include two participants. One being the host and the other being the guest. On this episode though, we were fortunate to have another guest, giving a third dimension to our chat on learning bespoke tailoring. This time that third dimensionally is a delightfully spirited pupil of Lee's, Beatriz. Before coming to Lee Beatriz had already gotten her feet wet in alterations but wanted to take things to the next level and contacted Lee and started on the four month long jacket making course known as the Savile Row Jacket Masterclass.

In this two part episode we go step by step through the Savile Row Jacket Masterclass to better understand it's potential to bring newcomers in touch with bespoke who find themselves thousands of of miles away from the Row itself. We also gain better insight into what working on Savile Row is like and where it is headed. 

Paolo Martorano: Paolo Martorano Bespoke - Common Threads 010 Part 2

Paolo Martorano: Paolo Martorano Bespoke - Common Threads 010 Part 2

October 29, 2021

Dubbed “the millennial bespoke tailor” by no less than Women’s Wear Daily, Paolo Martorano, while still young, boasts a singularly auspicious body of experience.

As the grandson of both a master tailor and a seamstress, Paolo’s inclination to the bespoke world was something of a double legacy birthright. Prior to attending the Fashion Institute of Technology, where he graduated with a degree in Textile Science, he began his career while still a teenager by garnering an internship with Alan Flusser. He followed that with a seven-year stint in the custom clothing department at the legendary Madison Avenue flagship of Paul Stuart (where he helped quadruple their made-to-measure and Bespoke operations), only leaving to assume the position of Manager of Bespoke and Made-to-Measure, North America, at Dunhill.

In 2017, at the urging of several customers, he took, by his own admission, the “immense step” of starting his own label.

Today, Paolo Martorano Bespoke — located in the Renaissance Studios on West 57th Street in Manhattan— hews to the tradition of the “meticulous measurement,” “custom paper pattern” and “basted fitting” protocols that define the very best classic Bespoke process — which for generations has been the gold standard of a hand-made garment.  In this way, Martorano has earned the respect of international power players looking for unassailable sartorial correctness. At the same time, he has also cultivated a following amongst a new generation of sharp-dressed men, who crave not only the personalization and expertise that signifies the craftsmanship, but who also expect a uniquely collaborative experience and a timely delivery schedule.

His client roster includes jazz guitarist John Pizzarelli, former Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus President Philip Miller, Stubbs & Wooton founder Percy Steinhart, and former President of LVMH, North America, David Daniel.

Paolo Martorano: Paolo Martorano Bespoke - Common Threads 010 Part 1

Paolo Martorano: Paolo Martorano Bespoke - Common Threads 010 Part 1

October 29, 2021

Dubbed “the millennial bespoke tailor” by no less than Women’s Wear Daily, Paolo Martorano, while still young, boasts a singularly auspicious body of experience.

As the grandson of both a master tailor and a seamstress, Paolo’s inclination to the bespoke world was something of a double legacy birthright. Prior to attending the Fashion Institute of Technology, where he graduated with a degree in Textile Science, he began his career while still a teenager by garnering an internship with Alan Flusser. He followed that with a seven-year stint in the custom clothing department at the legendary Madison Avenue flagship of Paul Stuart (where he helped quadruple their made-to-measure and Bespoke operations), only leaving to assume the position of Manager of Bespoke and Made-to-Measure, North America, at Dunhill.

In 2017, at the urging of several customers, he took, by his own admission, the “immense step” of starting his own label.

Today, Paolo Martorano Bespoke — located in the Renaissance Studios on West 57th Street in Manhattan— hews to the tradition of the “meticulous measurement,” “custom paper pattern” and “basted fitting” protocols that define the very best classic Bespoke process — which for generations has been the gold standard of a hand-made garment.  In this way, Martorano has earned the respect of international power players looking for unassailable sartorial correctness. At the same time, he has also cultivated a following amongst a new generation of sharp-dressed men, who crave not only the personalization and expertise that signifies the craftsmanship, but who also expect a uniquely collaborative experience and a timely delivery schedule.

His client roster includes jazz guitarist John Pizzarelli, former Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus President Philip Miller, Stubbs & Wooton founder Percy Steinhart, and former President of LVMH, North America, David Daniel.

Alex Bello: Tailoring, Advertising and Footballing - Common Threads 009

Alex Bello: Tailoring, Advertising and Footballing - Common Threads 009

August 20, 2021

Growing up, Alex's life ran parallel to a life of tailoring and fashion design. Doing homework where his mother would draft patterns that would be seen on the catwalk next season, he was always near the high fashion industry and got his first taste of it interning at Miller's Oath in New York City. At a young age Alex would excel at soccer and spend much of his childhood traveling the world playing the game. Alex now pours himself into the world of high fashion, applying the same dedication that allowed him to play on the US National Soccer Team in his teenage years. 

2:23 - US National Soccer Under 14

2:49 - Atlético Madrid 

7:22 - Miller's Oath 

12:00 - Paul Stuart

13:43 - Paolo Martorano 

14:19 - Mark Rykken

15:05 - Alan Flusser 

16:49 - Boston University 

25:00 - Sartorial Trips 

47:41 - Haider Ackermann

Dries Van Noten

52:58 - London College of Fashion (LCF)

53:35 - Thom Sweeney

Chris Despos: American Bespoke Tailor and Cutter - Common Threads 008

Chris Despos: American Bespoke Tailor and Cutter - Common Threads 008

July 16, 2021

Chris Despos has been making suits in the handmade tradition since the 1970s. As a second generation immigrant, Chris was initially taught by his Macedonian father who learned the trade working in Italian workshops on his way to the Americas. 

In this episode of Common Threads we get a brief glimpse into the world of bespoke tailoring in the United States after WWll as the country caught stride in the RTW and MTM industry. 

During the 70s and 80s in the United States many tailoring legends were still alive and well such as the famous Bill Fioravanti. These tailors belonged to technical associations such as the CTDA where exhibitions were held to show a certain cutting style or fitting technique. In addition to the sharing of skills Chris recounts how tailors would organize events to get to know each other better and build long lasting relationships.  

 

Society Brand - 5:00

Hart Schaffner Marx 

Fashion Institute of Technology - 7:15

Angelo Litrico - 9:00

Sartoria Litrico 

A. Caraceni - 15:05

Emilio Pucci - 24:45 

Fox Brothers - 24:45

Duke Ellington - 24:45 

CTDA - 27:00

Bill Fioravanti - 28:30

 

Discorso Lavorazione e Costruzione dell’Abito Sartoriale: Bernardo La Guardia, Vittorio Salino, e Riccardo Verolo - Common Threads 007

Discorso Lavorazione e Costruzione dell’Abito Sartoriale: Bernardo La Guardia, Vittorio Salino, e Riccardo Verolo - Common Threads 007

May 28, 2021

Siamo lieti di presentavi tre sarti Italiani; Bernardo La Guardia-tagliatore, Vittorio Salino-tagliatore Liverano & Liverano e Riccardo Verolo-tagliatore Sartoria Lemmi. Approfondiamo il discorso tipico della sartoria tirando fuori metodi e preferenze di taglio e costruzione. Parliamo anche del futuro del mestiere, problemi ricorrenti, insegnamento e la nuova scuola di sartoria "The Antonio Liverano School".

 

Liverano & Liverano 

Liverano School 

Sartoria Lemmi 

Sartoria Ripense 

Sartoria Gallo

Camera Europea dell'alta Sartoria 

L'academia dei Sartori 

Gaetano Aloisio

Michael Browne

Dobrik and Lawton 

 

Robert Jeffery Diduch: Vice President of Design, Hickey Freeman and Samuelsohn  - Common Threads 006

Robert Jeffery Diduch: Vice President of Design, Hickey Freeman and Samuelsohn - Common Threads 006

May 1, 2021

Jeffery has trained as a bespoke cutter and tailor, has an in-depth understanding of tailored clothing design, cut and construction in both traditional, hand-made methods as well as fully-engineered, factory-made production. Skilled at traditional media like Illustrator and Photoshop, he has certifications in both Browzwear 3D and Accumark 3D, and is skilled with Clo3D.  

 

Jeffery was President of the Southern Chapter of the International Association of Clothing Designers and Executives, represented North America on the International Executive Committee of the IACDE for three years, and has won five International Design Awards during the organization's annual global conventions.

He has published articles on tailoring and sewing in the IACDE's centenary book, Shaping the Past and the Future of Tailored Clothing, as well as The Rake magazine and four articles in Threads Magazine.  He founded the popular tailoring website Tutto Fatto a Mano, was  featured on the Discovery Channel's television show, How It's Made- Suits, and was filmed for an upcoming Discovery Channel show called MANufactured.

 

Apparel Arts 

Hickey Freeman 

Ralph Lauren 

Zegna 

Dior 

Balenciaga 

D'Avenza 

Chester Barrie

PBS Documentary - Rochester Clothing Industry 

Speciale 

Savile Row 

Angus Cundey

Oxxford - 37:00

Brioni - 38:00

Kiton - 38:00

TuttoFattoaMano Blog - 38:30

Samuelsohn - 39:40

Ask Andy - 45:20

Style Forum 

Hart Schaffner Marx - 45:30

Dolce Gabbana - 53:50

GFT - 1:16:45

Laura Teasdale: Bespoke Tailor - Common Threads 005 Part 2

Laura Teasdale: Bespoke Tailor - Common Threads 005 Part 2

February 14, 2021

Laura Teasdale, 29, is a bespoke tailor, having cut her teeth on Savile Row at the houses of Richard James and Chittleborough and Morgan specializing in coat making. Before working on the Row she completed an undergraduate degree in fashion design from Kingston University as well as a bespoke tailoring course with the omnipresent Newham College. She is now working and taking on commissions out of her studio in South London.

For more on Laura and other tailors visit our website discoverartifex.com.

Laura Teasdale: Bespoke Tailor - Common Threads 005 Part 1

Laura Teasdale: Bespoke Tailor - Common Threads 005 Part 1

February 14, 2021

Laura Teasdale, 29, is a bespoke tailor, having cut her teeth on Savile Row at the houses of Richard James and Chittleborough and Morgan specializing in coat making. Before working on the Row she completed an undergraduate degree in fashion design from Kingston University as well as a bespoke tailoring course with the omnipresent Newham College. She is now working and taking on commissions out of her studio in South London.

For more on Laura and other tailors visit our website discoverartifex.com.

 

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